We indulged in an amazing breakfast at one of the many small coffee shops around the central square. Each time we go out for a meal it reminds us that we will definitely miss the food here!
- Alli
Guerrilla historical walk in Cinquera
Travelling south east from Suchitoto and heading to our walking trail we encountered many scenic landscapes roadside. Aside from the usual and stunning array of flora we also encountered a large flock of migratory birds of prey. After 40 min we arrived at the trail head near the small town of Cinquera.
Trail head (above)
Bridge at trail head (above)
Stepping stone bridge across river (above)
Stepping stone bridge across river (above)
Our first point of interest was an abandoned indigo processing pool. We were told that 680kg of indigo plant would be placed in the higher pool. Logs and rocks would be placed on top to keep the plant submerged in water. It would remain for 24 hours in order to extract the colour from the plant. Then, the water would be released into the lower pool. Leaving behind the plant matter. At this point the water would be a green colour, however, a bacterium within the plant would turn the water from green to indigo as the water is oxygenated. This process would take a further 24 hours, also allowing the sediment to settle. They would then release the water leaving only the indigo coloured sludge/sediment. This would then be collected and boiled or baked creating a powdered indigo dye. A very delicate process, if the sediment was over or under heated it would destroy the colour. Over all 680kg of plant matter would yield only 1kg of powdered indigo.
The area we are hiking through was once completely deforested for indigo production, between the period of 1600 - 1800 and subsequently used as a plantation for the indigo plant. Hard to believe with the amount of growth we saw all around us!
Upper indigo pool (above)
Lower indigo pool (above)
Second stop was a small clearing which originally was used as a rest stop for the workers who were harvesting. In later years it would be used as a lookout for rebels to view the valley below. There are remanence of ‘L’ shaped trenches at the site, large enough for one or maybe two people to occupy. The reasoning of this design is to give multiple angles to sit in the trench, so as to maximise their firing position. Additionally, if there is artillery fire the occupant can move into the adjacent leg of the trench to lessen the impact of the shockwave. Another advantage was that if there were 2 people in the one trench, spent shells from their rifles would not land on the other person. We were told the guerrillas would also employ tactics of cascading fire to appear as a larger group to their opposition.
Clearing (above)
Trenches (above)
Trails (above)
Adding to the list of disadvantages that the guerrilla forces were up against, the army also had surveillance aircraft. This meant they were unable to have open fires. As a solution they constructed 1986/87 Vietnamese/Vietcong style kitchens. Tunnels were made winding 50 m into a hill the hillside, by covering a shallow trench with a mud roof, this would disguise the smoke from aerial view. Or at least their exact position if it were detected. Some of these kitchen areas also had a running natural water supply! However, their enemy was known to attempt to send spies to poison their water source. Since the guerrillas would help local civilians, bringing them into their encampment, only the cooks and generals were allowed to know where the kitchens were otherwise they were liable to have their water source compromised. As for the kitchen itself, a metal plate would be placed over a fire that would have mud walls around it to direct the smoke into the concealed tunnel. Because of the tunnel being filled with cooler air, a natural draft would be created, acting as an extractor for the smoke. As an added precaution the outlet of the tunnel would be covered with leaves to disperse the smoke.
Old kitchen, partially destroyed by time (above)
After a while longer, walking through the lush green jungle, we came to a camp. This was where the guerrillas would sleep. We were shown an operating table. With a hook for an IV bag. The table itself would be covered in a plastic sheet for basic hygiene. I can only imagine the countless and bloody surgeries that must have been conducted on this very spot. We were told they would also employ natural remedies, such as ginger root used for a sore throat or antiseptic for stomach ache (leaves as a tea). Additionally, at either end of the camp there were more ‘L’ shaped trenches as a perimeter defence.
Operating tables (above)
IV bag hook (above)
Ginger plant (above)
The team walking through the jungle (above)
View through the canopy (above)
Our next destination was a lookout point. Giving a stunning view out across the valley and on towards a lake and the volcano. The lookout was wooden and in bad shape. We could see a half-constructed steel replacement that was being built directly behind the one we ventured up. However due to its condition we had to go up in two separate groups so as not to put too much wait on the structure at the one time.
13°52'45.8"N 88°57'42.9"W
https://maps.google.com/?q=13.879401,-88.961927
View from the top of the lookout (above)
The lookout itself (above)
Ariel view of there lookout on a signpost (above)
From the lookout we could see the Guazapa volcano. This was the stronghold of the guerrilla forces. The location supplied many strategic advantages. The most important of which was that a lake near by the volcano acted as the perfect exit strategy in the case that the location was compromised. Additionally, the stronghold was only 30km from San Salvador, meaning it was close to the action.
From this point we began our journey back to the beginning of the trail. Descending on a similar path to complete the circuit. We came across a local dog who dutifully lead us back along our way. As well as a playful bat, surprisingly it must have been dark enough in the canopy for him to be out in the middle of the day.
About half way back we came to a dam which we were told was created by rangers. Located under a waterfall, there was a concrete weir so that they can hold and control the waters flow. It also created a nice swimming spot. Unfortunately, because there has been so much rain the flood gate had been opened to let the water flow freely from the small dammed area, leaving not much to swim in. This didn’t bother anyone particularly, we were able to explore and take some photos. I had only recently had a tattoo so couldn’t swim anyway, for risk of infection.
Dam constructed at base of waterfall (above)
Base of waterfall from a bridge (above)
Top of waterfall (above)
The group at the falls (above)
Once we had completed the remaining part of the trail, crossing back over bridges and stepping stones through the river, we were treated to a snack and drink back at the van.
After a quick break we were taken back into the small town of Cinquera. Where we were we were shown a war memorial within the towns central square.
13°53'18.4"N 88°57'32.4"W
https://maps.google.com/?q=13.888445,-88.958985
The war memorial (above)
After spending some time inspecting the memorial we were introduced to ‘Don Rafael’ (Don being a respectful/endearing term for an elder) On first appearances 56-year-old Rafael looked much younger than his years suggested, especially considering the many years of war he had endured in his younger days.
With our tour guide translating for us we began with Rafael’s life story and ended in a Q and A session with our group.
Firstly, Rafael explained that in December this year he will have completed 18 years as a park ranger and tourist guide. He tells us that he likes both jobs, especially that he gets to meet new people regularly and that he is responsible for protecting the local forest, one that he spent a great portion of his life living in. He explains that he was born on one of the larger local farms. Where he had to work in slave like conditions. The locals working on this land were all working on borrowed land. They were required to work Monday to Saturday 7am until 4pm. For a day of work, they were paid 1 colon (old currency) (equivalent nowadays 11c on the US dollar). This was not enough to provide for their family's. Owners of these farms grew sugarcane and food for their cattle. Sloped sections and less fertile land were given to peasants to grow basic grains (corn). Because they got the worst soil quality they were the worst affected. Rafael explained that it was because of this situation that social unrest began to build and eventually would become the main reasons that the anti-government movement began.
However, it was not an overnight thing. Initially the main goal was to organize and conquer some land from the owners, so they could own it and carve out a more prosperous life. In 1974 some unions were created. At this time Rafael was only 12 years old, but he recalls the accelerated growth of these organisations. By the end of 74 these unions banded together and became the foundation of the anti-government movement. They gained numbers and momentum quickly. The government noticed the sudden swell of support for these amalgamated groups and acted quickly to repress them. In turn creating a powder keg political situation. The flash point of which was an event that led to the massacre of a number of students, by government forces, at a protest in San Salvador on 30 mar 1975. During a protest at least 12 people were killed, 20 wounded and 40 arrested. The protest which included up to 3,000 students, was held as a response to the forceful repression of previous protests that had been organized in Santa Ana that year. In Rafael’s opinion, this was considered the beginning of the civil war.
From that point the government quickly set about the persecution and execution of group leaders and members of the anti-government groups. The main group became known as the ‘Popular bloc of revolutionaries’ which began to arm themselves in order to protect their way of life and contest the current government. Rafael says that there was no major escalation from 1975 till 77 when the government executed a number of catholic priests who were talking revolutionary ideals in their sermon. At this point Rafael moved to the capitol in the hope of being safer, and away from the conflict. At 15 years old he was forced into construction work as there were few opportunities for work at that time. Rafael was also studying at night so as to further his education.
As he was both student and worker he became involved in unionist protests which often turned into clashes with police in San Salvador. A year later he decided to move again as it was now too unsafe for him in San Salvador, due to the increased protests and violence. The government used the police and national guard to control the rising unrest. It wasn’t until he was assaulted by the national guard that he returned home at 16 and joined as the 11th member of the local Guerrilla force, and its youngest member. Despite being so young he took his decision to fight very seriously. The organisation continued to grow until 1980 when the government officially declared war on the resistance. Village people immigrated to larger cities and other countries to avoid the conflict. In 1980 Rafael was sent to Cuba to be trained as a soldier. He was away a year, on returning he was assigned to San Salvador as guerrilla special forces. However, he had received jungle training and had been deployed in an urban area. So, he decided to ask to be re-assigned and was sent back to his home town of Cinquera. His first task was to train groups of 30 fighters for 2 months each. Which were then deployed elsewhere around the country as special forces units.
Rafael recalls 1981 as one of the roughest years. The governments army was training with US and putting together a special forces platoons of their own. These platoons were using a ‘scorched earth strategy’. The same as what the US had used in Vietnam which was essentially to come in and kill and burn everything that moves, animals included. By this time, they were all in the forest. Living of a diet of edible plants, roots etc. In the town of Cinquera, across the road from where we sat at the war memorial, the now city hall had been used as a base for the army. Rafael recalls a bloody battle in 1983 when the guerrilla forces descended from the forest and reclaimed the town hall and the city centre. There had been 200 army personnel stationed here. A mix of guard, soldiers and para-military. The army was hurt by this loss, and as a result, changed their tactics. The govt saw this town as a key strategic location and offered much pressure on the location, wanting to regain control, there was constant confrontation in the area. The bloodiest of years being 85, 87 and 88.
During 87 they anti-government forces were also starting employ the use of army aircraft. The guerrilla forces were under fire 4-6 times a day and were unable to cook due to the frequency of attack and risk of disclosing their location. Their main issue was being able to engage the aircraft. In order to further train their ground troops, Rafael was given 2 months physics training so as to better engage these moving aerial targets. After the training they had the theory and were assigned a ballistics exam. They were sent to Suchitoto close to the air force base where they knew there would be frequent aircraft. Where they conducted a live fire exam on the aircraft taking off from the base! Succeed or die. By the end their group had taken down 2 helicopters. A big win for the rebel forces! They were bombed in retaliation and assaulted with machine gun fire from the air. They left their advanced training with the commanders giving them a high grade as commendation. Up until this point their forces had not taken down a single aerial aircraft. From this point it became standard practice in training for the guerrilla forces. By the end of the conflict they had managed to take down 6 helicopters. The tail of the 6th is mounted in the square at the memorial where we are sitting. It was important for them to destroy or damage aircraft to fight a psychological battle with the army. Succeeding in making them afraid to enter the aria by air and therefore unable to engage the guerrilla forces.
In 1989 the final offensive took place in San Salvador, wherein both forces engaged in an all-out war over control of the capital. After 14 days of 24 hours-a-day fighting, there was international pressure to bring the conflict to an end. This led to the beginnings of negotiation to settle the dispute by pen rather than sword. Despite this, there was still fighting as late as 1990. Where in the anti-government forces provoked the government to force negations. On the 16th of January 1992 a treaty was finally signed.
Q&A with Rafael.
Q: Are you happy with politics now?
A: It’s ok, but there are many complex things that could improve. The guerrillas became a political party post war and in 2008 they got a seat in the government, which is a good start. There is now good health and education due to all the cooperation. However, highland coffee farms are still enslaved to similar standards of the pre-war times.
Q: Was it a celebration when treaty was signed?
A: There was a huge celebration in San Salvador. No guns. As they had all been handed over. Uniforms however were allowed.
Q: Are you currently involved politically?
A: No. But I am still a member of the political organization. I would be happy to support the political party should the need arise.
Q: What other countries gave the guerrillas assistance?
A: The US supported the government. We received civilian aid from US humanitarian causes. Any humanitarian financial aid was used for weapons. Cuba and Nicaragua give military, medical and political training. We also had diplomatic relations with countries where we were able to send people to receive advanced surgeries.
Q: Would you have to sleep in the trenches?
A: We slept on plastic sheets on the ground, or in a hammock. In certain situations, they would sleep in trenches, although this was uncommon. If so there was only room for one per trench.
Q: How did the terrain and sickness affected them?
A: For first 2 years there were few trees, due to the deforestation for the indigo plantation. It was difficult as there was no cover. After some years the re-growth created shelter. Some animals came and supplied a source of food.
Q: During the war, did everyone have to choose a side?
A: Yes everyone who stayed in the area would choose. Usually by who's side was closest. Some families tried to remain impartial. They were wiped out regardless. It’s a very personal circumstance. His older brother chose the government military. It was very divided even within families.
Q: Was it difficult to reconcile after the war?
A: All things considered, the two groups came together fairly well. 90% peacefully upheld the treaty and integrated in harmony, that is my belief anyway. 10% of the population struggled to integrate to a civilian lifestyle after 12 years of war. These people still hold on to more extremist ideals to this day. I personally know people that were on both sides and we get on well now, with no problems.
And that concludes my extremely long day of history! It was very interesting, and I enjoyed hearing about the history from a first-person account! We returned back to our accommodation and slept!
-Tom
