The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort
Seeing the sunset and sunrise above the Taj Mahal seemed like a great way to beat the heat and admire this world wonder. Our alarm went off at 4.45am and we were picked up at 5.30am by a tuk tuk driver we organised the day before and our backpacker friend from France we also met the day before, Clement.
Unfortunately for us the sunrise went unobserved due to a thick layer of grey fog that totally obscured the sun. Despite this the early hour of our arrival meant less people and less heat making the experience more enjoyable.
We hired a guide out the front for 500 INR who had 20 years of experience, knew lots of interesting facts & the best places to take photos with the Taj Mahal.
We entered through the western gate after buying the most expensive ticket & going through the most thorough security we had encountered in India yet. At this entrance gate we saw a red sand stone edifice which our guide told us is called Fatehpur Begum, named after a wife of Shah Jahan, the Emperor who built the Taj Mahal. Once through an entry gate there is a courtyard and garden leading towards a royal gate and the gardens for the Taj Mahal. Even the entry gates and gardens are an impressive sight! Unlike a lot of the world heritage sites we have visited on our travels, the perimeter fencing, entry gates, walkways, gardens & the Taj Mahal itself are kept in pristine condition. At the time of our visits the Taj Mahal had scaffolding around it and our guide explained they regularly clean it with a pressurised water system to keep the marble a clean, shiny white.
We spent a total of 2 hours in the complex. Walking through the gardens, taking photos, exploring the buildings either side of the Taj Mahal which are a mosque and an identical building to maintain symmetry that was used as a guest house. Finally walking up the steps into the Taj Mahal and being told it was a tomb that now housed the bodies of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal.
The story of the Taj Mahal is based on an undying, extraordinary tale of passion, beauty, love & tragedy that has been forever preserved in white marble and known to the world as a wonder.
It all started with the 5th Mughal Emperor, Mirza Shahab-ud-din Baig Muhammad Khan Khurram, commonly known by his self appointed regnal title as Shah Jahan who reigned over India in the years 1628 – 1658. His reign was considered the golden age for the Mughal emperor’s and he is remembered for his great military prowess and architectural monuments, one of those is the Taj Mahal, a mausoleum for his third and favourite wife Arjumand Banu Begum or more commonly known as Mumtaz Mahal.
Mumtaz Mahal means jewel of the palace, beloved ornament of the palace, chosen one of the palace or the exalted one of the palace (depending where you read). She is remembered for her beauty, grace, education, architectural achievements which include a garden she designed in Agra and most importantly the chief consort and favourite wife of Shah Jahan.
She first met Shah Jahan when she was 14 years old and he reportedly was adamant about marrying her. An engagement was arranged in 1607 AD and 5 years later, a date determined by astrologers, they were married. She was described as a perfect & devoted wife, trusted companion for Shah Jahan and that their relationship was loving and intense. Despite her nearly constant state of pregnancy, she would accompany him across the empire and would even be by his side on military campaigns. While pregnant with their 14th child they were away on a military campaign in Burhanpur (now known as Madhya, Pradesh) when she went into labour and died shortly after from birth complications rumoured to be postpartum haemorrhage.
Shah Jahan's grief was said to be extreme and inconsolable. He stayed and finished the military campaign before coming home to design a Muslim Mausoleum and garden to be Mumtaz's final resting place. A project that would involve 22,000 people, take 22 years, cost 40 million INR and become a world wonder. When Shah Jahan died on the 31st January AD 1666, his body was placed next to Mumtaz's in the Taj Mahal, where their earthly bodies can rest together in white marble, while their soul's reunite in the afterlife.
After leaving the Taj Mahal complex it was with a desperate speed that our Tuk Tuk was headed back to the hostel to drop me off while Tom & Clement went to the Red Fort. I had been progressively getting sicker and sicker as the morning ticked by, I suspect the curry I ate for dinner. At some stages I was so nauseous I couldn't think or walk. I had a brief panic attack while experiencing a wave of nausea in the Taj Mahal that made me genuinely fear I might vomit inside this precious world wonder and disgrace myself! Luckily I made it back safely to the hostel and after reviewing the photos at at the Taj mahal I managed a few deceivingly good smiles in the photos. I wouldn't emerge from our hostel until lunch time the next day.
Upon arrival you enter through a massive gatehouse with large wooden doors and a draw bridge. We were told both had been re-constructed during British occupation to make them more manageable to use. And seeing as in modern times there was less chance of a siege or battering ram situation, I can understand the change. Even the replacements were massive and I wondered how many people it would take to move them. We decided to hire a guide so as to get the most out of the experience. Entrance set us back 500inr (50inr discount as we had visited the Taj Mahal and could show them tickets) and the guide we got for 500-700inr. I'm glad we did as there is a rich history here and its great to have someone who has worked as a guide for 20 years who knows the answer to every question. We later found out they also have to resit their guides licence and pass a written test on the history of a location every 3 years to maintain the licence. Any properly accredited guide will have his papers and a numbered name badge on him at all times.
We moved on past the entrance and were met with a peculiar curved ramp that entered into a kind of chanel leading up to the palace section of the fort. We were told that this slow curve was designed to accomodate elephants as they can't turn very sharply, and were often used in the past for military purposes. Additionally the entrance courtyard had a build in balcony up high so that people could observe from above when the army came home. And would throw roses and rose water down from above to welcome them.
As we entered the next section of the fort we were met with an inclined ramp that was flanked with sheer walls. This was designed as a second level of security after the main entrance, where if breached the defending army could roll large stones to deter the attacking force. There were also sinister vents in the walls where boiling water and oil could be pored down onto the enemy. External of the wall we learned there was also a moat for crocodiles and also a dry moat where tigers were kept to deter the enemy! I can imagine this must have been a very forbidding place in its day.
We continued up to the palace section, passing into the Palace of Jahangir (or Akbar). we entered a quad that had various alcoves on each side. One being the bedroom, another the dining hall. The face side was completely open except for structural columns, we were told that there would have been curtains hung to create privacy, as well as lavish rugs for carpet and expensive furniture. It was difficult to imagine when looking at the vast empty space which is now inhabited by pigeons. However the extremely ornate columns and ceilings gave hint to the atmosphere which would have filled these large spaces.
Moving further into the palaces we passed through various spaces used as mosques and a large garden where grapes were grown to make wine for the royal family. We were also shown the palace where Shah Jahan had conceived his many children. This palace was a spectacular white marble that matched that of the Taj Mahal. It was extremely ornate and beautiful. It was amazing to think that this marble had come from 400km away, expertly carved and polished and laid hundreds of yeas ago. It looked almost as if new!
Finally after visiting some smaller palaces that were the princesses we passed through Diwan-i-Am, or Hall of Audience. This was where the Emperor and his government minister would sit to hear complaints from the common people. This would happen every Friday and people would travel from around the province to come to voice their concern. A very astute tactic for the Emperor to keep track of what was going on in his kingdom. This hall was stunning and featured a grid of towering pillars. I can imagine that it would have been a very confronting experience to approach the throne and speak your part!
Seeing the sunset and sunrise above the Taj Mahal seemed like a great way to beat the heat and admire this world wonder. Our alarm went off at 4.45am and we were picked up at 5.30am by a tuk tuk driver we organised the day before and our backpacker friend from France we also met the day before, Clement.
Unfortunately for us the sunrise went unobserved due to a thick layer of grey fog that totally obscured the sun. Despite this the early hour of our arrival meant less people and less heat making the experience more enjoyable.
We hired a guide out the front for 500 INR who had 20 years of experience, knew lots of interesting facts & the best places to take photos with the Taj Mahal.
We entered through the western gate after buying the most expensive ticket & going through the most thorough security we had encountered in India yet. At this entrance gate we saw a red sand stone edifice which our guide told us is called Fatehpur Begum, named after a wife of Shah Jahan, the Emperor who built the Taj Mahal. Once through an entry gate there is a courtyard and garden leading towards a royal gate and the gardens for the Taj Mahal. Even the entry gates and gardens are an impressive sight! Unlike a lot of the world heritage sites we have visited on our travels, the perimeter fencing, entry gates, walkways, gardens & the Taj Mahal itself are kept in pristine condition. At the time of our visits the Taj Mahal had scaffolding around it and our guide explained they regularly clean it with a pressurised water system to keep the marble a clean, shiny white.
We spent a total of 2 hours in the complex. Walking through the gardens, taking photos, exploring the buildings either side of the Taj Mahal which are a mosque and an identical building to maintain symmetry that was used as a guest house. Finally walking up the steps into the Taj Mahal and being told it was a tomb that now housed the bodies of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal.
The story of the Taj Mahal is based on an undying, extraordinary tale of passion, beauty, love & tragedy that has been forever preserved in white marble and known to the world as a wonder.
It all started with the 5th Mughal Emperor, Mirza Shahab-ud-din Baig Muhammad Khan Khurram, commonly known by his self appointed regnal title as Shah Jahan who reigned over India in the years 1628 – 1658. His reign was considered the golden age for the Mughal emperor’s and he is remembered for his great military prowess and architectural monuments, one of those is the Taj Mahal, a mausoleum for his third and favourite wife Arjumand Banu Begum or more commonly known as Mumtaz Mahal.
Mumtaz Mahal means jewel of the palace, beloved ornament of the palace, chosen one of the palace or the exalted one of the palace (depending where you read). She is remembered for her beauty, grace, education, architectural achievements which include a garden she designed in Agra and most importantly the chief consort and favourite wife of Shah Jahan.
She first met Shah Jahan when she was 14 years old and he reportedly was adamant about marrying her. An engagement was arranged in 1607 AD and 5 years later, a date determined by astrologers, they were married. She was described as a perfect & devoted wife, trusted companion for Shah Jahan and that their relationship was loving and intense. Despite her nearly constant state of pregnancy, she would accompany him across the empire and would even be by his side on military campaigns. While pregnant with their 14th child they were away on a military campaign in Burhanpur (now known as Madhya, Pradesh) when she went into labour and died shortly after from birth complications rumoured to be postpartum haemorrhage.
Shah Jahan's grief was said to be extreme and inconsolable. He stayed and finished the military campaign before coming home to design a Muslim Mausoleum and garden to be Mumtaz's final resting place. A project that would involve 22,000 people, take 22 years, cost 40 million INR and become a world wonder. When Shah Jahan died on the 31st January AD 1666, his body was placed next to Mumtaz's in the Taj Mahal, where their earthly bodies can rest together in white marble, while their soul's reunite in the afterlife.
After leaving the Taj Mahal complex it was with a desperate speed that our Tuk Tuk was headed back to the hostel to drop me off while Tom & Clement went to the Red Fort. I had been progressively getting sicker and sicker as the morning ticked by, I suspect the curry I ate for dinner. At some stages I was so nauseous I couldn't think or walk. I had a brief panic attack while experiencing a wave of nausea in the Taj Mahal that made me genuinely fear I might vomit inside this precious world wonder and disgrace myself! Luckily I made it back safely to the hostel and after reviewing the photos at at the Taj mahal I managed a few deceivingly good smiles in the photos. I wouldn't emerge from our hostel until lunch time the next day.
The next part about the Red fort is all from Tom ;)
- Alli
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After dropping Allisha home Clement and I were taken to a local restaurant to have a late breakfast. It was already late in the morning and we hadn't eaten yet. I was relieved to get an omelette and some toast into me. As well as another litre of water! Its insane how much water you consume each day here. It is so dry and dusty rendering you constantly thirsty. After our meal was finished we were on our way to the Agra Fort. Its hard to explain the enormity of this walled fortress. It covers a total of 380,000 square meters. However we were only able to explore a portion of this due to large portions still being actively used for military purposes. Once you arrive it is easy to see that despite being built hundreds of years ago the fortifications are still very relevant to a modern day military post, and is in very good condition.
Upon arrival you enter through a massive gatehouse with large wooden doors and a draw bridge. We were told both had been re-constructed during British occupation to make them more manageable to use. And seeing as in modern times there was less chance of a siege or battering ram situation, I can understand the change. Even the replacements were massive and I wondered how many people it would take to move them. We decided to hire a guide so as to get the most out of the experience. Entrance set us back 500inr (50inr discount as we had visited the Taj Mahal and could show them tickets) and the guide we got for 500-700inr. I'm glad we did as there is a rich history here and its great to have someone who has worked as a guide for 20 years who knows the answer to every question. We later found out they also have to resit their guides licence and pass a written test on the history of a location every 3 years to maintain the licence. Any properly accredited guide will have his papers and a numbered name badge on him at all times.
We moved on past the entrance and were met with a peculiar curved ramp that entered into a kind of chanel leading up to the palace section of the fort. We were told that this slow curve was designed to accomodate elephants as they can't turn very sharply, and were often used in the past for military purposes. Additionally the entrance courtyard had a build in balcony up high so that people could observe from above when the army came home. And would throw roses and rose water down from above to welcome them.
We continued up to the palace section, passing into the Palace of Jahangir (or Akbar). we entered a quad that had various alcoves on each side. One being the bedroom, another the dining hall. The face side was completely open except for structural columns, we were told that there would have been curtains hung to create privacy, as well as lavish rugs for carpet and expensive furniture. It was difficult to imagine when looking at the vast empty space which is now inhabited by pigeons. However the extremely ornate columns and ceilings gave hint to the atmosphere which would have filled these large spaces.
Moving further into the palaces we passed through various spaces used as mosques and a large garden where grapes were grown to make wine for the royal family. We were also shown the palace where Shah Jahan had conceived his many children. This palace was a spectacular white marble that matched that of the Taj Mahal. It was extremely ornate and beautiful. It was amazing to think that this marble had come from 400km away, expertly carved and polished and laid hundreds of yeas ago. It looked almost as if new!
There was also a massive main courtyard. Where weekly they would hold a mini market for the women, who were not allowed to leave the palace. Local vendors would bring the finest products for display here for the women of the palace. Despite being such a lavish place this still seemed a very futile reprieve, to what must have been a very controlled life for the women here. Be they legitimate wives or otherwise.
Finally after visiting some smaller palaces that were the princesses we passed through Diwan-i-Am, or Hall of Audience. This was where the Emperor and his government minister would sit to hear complaints from the common people. This would happen every Friday and people would travel from around the province to come to voice their concern. A very astute tactic for the Emperor to keep track of what was going on in his kingdom. This hall was stunning and featured a grid of towering pillars. I can imagine that it would have been a very confronting experience to approach the throne and speak your part!
From here we headed back down the ramp to the gate we entered and headed back to the Hostel. Later that afternoon, Clement and I went to see the sun set over the Taj Mahal. Unfortunately it was very hazy and was a little disappointing. The view point was from across the river, and the sun was setting about 90 degrees to our right. So not much of a show there! But a good way to finish the day. By this point I was on the point of heat exhaustion and went home and straight to bed!
- Tom
- Tom
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