Wednesday, 18 July 2018

Day 116 - Sailing On The Nile

Sailing On The Nile,

On the second day of the Felucca we all awoke as a massive collective, strewn across the vast mattresses that made up the deck. Having had quite a few drinks the night before, we all willingly slip off the side into the cool and refreshing water. Washing away the previous day and starting to wake up a little more, we return back to the boat for breakfast. We are greeted with a simple breakfast, similar to lunch the day before, consisting of falafel, fried egg, cream cheese, tomato, cucumber, bread, tea and coffee. Despite it's humble composition the meal is delicious and has great texture and plenty of neutrient's to propel us through the morning. Understandably its difficult to cater on a boat that has no formal kitchen quarters, just some eski's and a small gas stove.


Once we had all willingly scoffed down our breakfast we helped to clear up the dishes and utensils that were placed down a long plastic table cloth in the center of the mattress. Our three crewmen quickly readied the sail for us to make way. Staring up at the complicated and pivoting boom, I was in awe that such a construction was in creation so many thousands of years ago. Far before any other countries were even considering sea travel. Truly another marvel attributed to the engineering prowess the people of this region of the world. So many thousands of years ahead of the rest of us! Coming back from my day dream I look up to find the sail at full mast and our trusty 'poo boat' assisting us away from the shore. For what started off as a calm morning, the wind quickly picks up as the sun begins to heat the air. We start to hoe into a couple of recovery beers, enjoying the local 'Stella' brew that is the staple here in egypt. By midday the wind had become too strong to sail. So we pulled over on the bank and dropped the sails. Deciding it would be safest to get a tow from the poo boat we connect ropes and continue along the river in a a caravan. By now everyone has a beer in hand and we are talking spirtedly and listening to relaxing and cathartic tunes such as Darude's Sandstorm. All of a sudden there are shouts coming from the crew. We look ahead of us and see the poo boat turning hard left. We then become aware of an abandoned jetty that is protruding out into the river. Not being on a collision course with the jetty everyone seems to relax a little. However remembering that we had another boat in tow behind us. I look back and see that with the swing of the convoy it was looking like the second felucca was not going to be as lucky. The crew of the second felucca were already scrambelling to find something to place between the rigging and the jetty at the point of impact. Settling on a large plastic container, which they managed to get into place in the last second. However it pretty much exploded on impact when the rigging made contact with the jetty. The second felucca came to a jarring halt. Having lost some of its speed when the poo boat had made evasive maneuvers the impact was lessened. However still enough to cause some damage to the rigging, and giving all aboard a good fright. With our crew having made the best of a bad situation. Seems the tow lines were perhaps too long and the convoy had drifted by current or a gust of wind, at a very inconvienent time as the jetty was approaching. Luckily no one was injured and the damage to the boat was minimal. The lead poo boat was under way again and we continued on our journey!


Stopping a short time later we pulled in to a sand dune along the bank. By the time all 3 boats were up against the bank and the gang planks were down, locals had begun to set up blankets on the sand to sell their wares. We climbed to the top deck of the poo boat, which was the highest safe point to jump from, and started diving and flipping into the water. We spent an hour or so lapping up the sun at this beautiful shoreside oasis. Finally enjoying another simple but delicious lunch we pushed off the bank and continued under tow to our port of call for the night.


Another seemingly unsuspecting section of river bank quickly became a place of intrigue as soon as we stepped off. Noticing a small grass hut, which some of us mistook for a bonfire, that we knew would come later that night. We noticed several buffalo wallowing in the marshy land near the river, crops of corn grew in tight regiments and a couple of very good looking donkeys were milling around. We all disembarked the vessels and wandered over to the various animals to make friends, or take photos. The locals of the village were scarce, and must have been tending to other matters. We were put to work to collect fire wood for the bonfire later, walking around the beautiful landscape as the sun was making its final journey to the horizon. Once we had a decent pile accumulated we continued to take photos and hang out in small groups chatting and enjoying the sunset casting a beautiful amber glow over the green and blue of the village. The suns rays seemed to weave through the grassy edges of the village, creating a beautiful and nostalgia like glow to the last few minutes of daylight. That being said it could have just as easily been my eyes, as I had consumed a few beers by then! Either way, it was a beautiful and serene moment in the trip, one where the world seems to truly melt away and you are left with the raw unadulterated beauty of nature and the shared experience with good company.

Once the sun had made its journey, the bonfire was lit and we all gathered and were treated to a dance with the locals. Quickly a small assembly of musicians were gathered, including many of our felucca crewmen. Drums and other instruments materialised and we were soon enjoying the riveting tones of the unique tribal music of the region. We were all invited to dance and were soon in a circle dancing as one big group, following the leader of each dance, awkwardly trying to replicate the movements and compliment the music. After a short time all reservations were dissolved and we were all wiggling and dancing with little inhibition. Smiles plastered on our faces, we danced to many choruses of whitty dialogue by the song leaders.

Exhausted and pretty sloshed at this point we disbanded and sat around the fire chatting. Until someone had the genius idea to go skinny dipping. Another good way to finish off an excellent day! Including a few choice photos that, for society's sake I hope never see the light of day! Soon after, and thankfully it was dinner time. We all convened on the top of the poo boat, which was quite a squeeze and scoffed our dinner. This didn't sit too well on top of all the beers I had throughout the day, so I decided it was about time to turn in. Making the short but wobbly trip back to our Fellucca. It was much cooler that night and once Allisha returned to bed soon after I was straight to sleep.

- Tom


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